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York Architecture

Written by Jonathan Malory   

The military architecture of York, whilst giving an idea of strength and power to the city, adds greatly to its picturesqueness. The line of embattled walls is agreeably broken by buttresses and mural towers, whilst the stately gatehouses set along the line of fortification give a sense of dignity, at the same time reflecting the sturdy independence of the people of York.

The streets are generally termed "gates", the gate­houses "bars", and the city walls "bar walls". Such names as Blossom Street, Nunnery Lane, and Bridge Street are only modern substitutes for Ploxamgate, Baggergate, and Briggate. The "gates" of York often confuse visitors. A revising barrister once excused himself for being late in court by saying that he had lost his way and at last found himself in "Bootham-gate-street!" The street referred to is simply named Bootham. The streets are narrow and wind in all directions. "What narrow streets!" ex­claimed Sidney Smith to one of the city tradesmen. "There is scarcely room for two carriages to pass." "Not room!" was the indignant reply. "There's plenty of room, sir, and two inches to spare." 

High Petergate, York, looking from inside Bootham Bar The city is pleasantly situated on slightly elevated ground in the midst of a plain. Through it flows the Ouse, which is crossed by three bridges. The central one-Ouse Bridge-is of stone and consists of three elliptical arches. The other two are of iron and have quatrefoil parapets. A view of Lendal Bridge shows the old water towers. The bridge is of a single span, and on the apex of the arch the Queen-mother, Alexandra, is depicted as an angel, holding the shield of St. George. Other shields, on the parapet, bear the arms of Plantagenet England, the See of York, and the White Rose. On either side charming views present themselves. On the left by the side of the river is the Esplanade, backed by St. Mary's Abbey Close, in which are the ruins of the Abbey Church. Towards the right is a beautiful view of the city. Rising from the riverside are the stone buildings of the Post Office, Council Chamber, and the ancient Guildhall, while beyond are seen the towers and spires of the city churches. Skeldergate Bridge con­sists of central and side arches, and has its parapet adorned with the Lily of France and the Sun of York.

In the streets old timber and plaster dwellings, with their overhanging stories and high-peaked red-tiled gables, are here and there hemmed in by modern buildings. Timber houses, however, are becoming scarcer, and quite recently a number of such dwell­ings have been demolished. A few carved brackets which carry overhanging stories remain in Stonegate and Fossgate, and two from Davygate have been re-erected in Trinity Lane. The Shambles is the only street that preserves its narrow mediaeval character. From the uppermost of its overhanging stories you might shake hands with your neighbour across the street. This and Little Shambles are the delight of artists. The end of one house has been shorn of the lath and plaster work and shows how such timber houses were con­structed. 

The antiquity of the houses in High Petergate, and the mediaeval narrowness of the street, enable one looking towards Bootham Bar to realize the former appearance of the approach to a gate­house from within the city. The approaches to the other Bars have been widened and their aspect changed. A characteristic of York is the frequent occurrence at street corners of an ancient church surrounded by its burial-ground. 

"Each in its little plot of holy ground,
How beautiful they stand,
These old grey churches of our native land."